Amy Wilson, one of the owners of Louisiana Caviar Co., at one time only ate the delicacy when she was impressing a business client at dinner or enjoying a celebration meal.
Now, she said, she keeps a jar in her refrigerator and adds a dollop to eggs, sandwiches or maybe just enjoys a scoop or two with a little creme fraiche.
"I never thought I'd be able to treat it the same way I do a jar of mustard," Wilson said on Wednesday (July 18), which was National Caviar Day. I met Wilson and co-owner Alison Vega-Knoll at Meril, where we tasted Louisiana Caviar Co.'s traditional caviar and a Spicy Cajun Caviar that is made with ghost-peppers.
Sniff Cajun Caviar and there is no fishy smell. Taste it and it is bright, lightly salted. The individual eggs look like tiny, shiny, black pearls and pop in your mouth just like they are supposed to.
Vega-Knoll, chef and owner of Station 6, said she's used the caviar for more than 20 years, including when she owned Vega Tapas on Metairie Road.
Her happy hour - Tuesday through Thursday -- features six raw oysters, topped with caviar and a glass of Champagne for $15.
She enjoys being able to put a big dollop on dishes, rather than having to use it sparingly, the way she would imported caviar.
Cajun Caviar's fish eggs are taken from bowfin, or what is locally called choupique (pronounced shoe-pick), which is Choctaw word that means "mudfish." It can be found in the eastern United States and Canada, including the Mississippi River basin.
It is one of only three true caviar producing species found in the United States, the women said. The others are sturgeon and paddlefish.
The black roe is harvested from the fish's ovaries by fishers in the Atchafalaya Basin, processed and packed according to the traditional Russian method.
Imported caviar from the coveted sturgeon species beluga, osetra and sevruga are caught in the Caspian Sea. The eggs, which vary in size, may be black, gold, gray or reddish. The color, egg size and availability affects the pricing, so it fluctuates, but these caviars run $100 to $150 or so and ounce.
The traditional Cajun Caviar, which sells exclusively at Martin Wine Cellar, costs $35 for 1.6 ounces and $110 for 5 ounces and the Spicy Cajun Caviar comes in one size, 2.6 ounces, and sells for $70.
If you order caviar at Windsor Court these summer, you're likely to get Cajun Caviar, said Joey Worley, the director of Food & Beverage at hotel.
The varieties served fluctuate, he said, but this summer Cajun Caviar as well as White Sturgeon Gold from Idaho are available in Polo Club Lounge, The Grill Room and Cocktail Bar.
"At the hotel, we charge $75 for a serving of the caviar," he said. This service varies, but generally comes accoutrement, such as blini and creme fraiche.
"In the past, we featured five or six different types from all over the world," Worley said, and he expects to add more varieties around the winter holidays, but from a cost standpoint, these are the most feasible, plus, the hotel likes to serve domestic foods when possible.
"When I moved to Louisiana, I was certainly aware of the bounty of fish and shellfish, but I was very pleasantly surprised when I tried caviar from Louisiana," said Worley, who has worked for the hotel for three years.
Domestic harvesting keeps the price down as well, he said, making it available to more people: "From a cost standpoint, if you're talking about any good or product that has to cost an ocean to get to you -- that is going to raise the cost," he said.
Worley said he has worked for classically trained chefs who insisted on Russian caviar.
"I'm all about a locally sourced or grown product," he said. "Maybe psychologically that affects my taste buds, but I find the Louisiana caviar tends to be a little bit cleaner tasting."
What makes it taste milder is that the bowfin feed on crawfish, Gulf shrimp and other seafood live in Louisiana waters.
Cajun Caviar has been around for more than 30 years ago, but, in October, Amy Hollister Wilson, Alison Vega-Knoll and Alden Lagasse purchased it.
Cajun Caviar is sold to wholesale purveyors as well as in dozens of New Orleans restaurants, including Emeril Lagasse's in New Orleans businesses, Galatoire's, Restaurant August and Commander's Palace.
"Cajun Caviar has been on the menu at Commander's since chef Emeril oversaw the kitchen, and its quality has only gotten better," states Tory McPhail, Commander's Palace executive chef said in a press release.
"Having the opportunity to utilize a product with such richness and delicacy is a dream. The fact that it's harvested right here in our waters makes it extremely special, and much more personal for me."
CAVIAR NOTES
How to serve it: Cajun Caviar can be kept in the jar in the refrigerator from six to eight weeks. Avoid metal bowls or spoons. Serve caviar in glass, crystal or china set atop ice. Use a china spoon to scoop it up. Really into it? Get yourself a mother-of-pearl caviar spoon.
Eating it: Some folks spoon directly into their mouths. Others like to put it atop toast points.
What goes with it: Traditional accompaniments include:
-- Creme fraiche and blini (thin pancakes)
-- Sieved hard-cooked egg - whites and yolks separated, minced red onions, lemon wedges and sour cream.
-- Raw or smoked salmon, minced.
-- Also consider, chopped shallots, mild herbs, cut-to-order fried potato chips...
Drinking with it: A chilled brut Champagne or ice-y cold vodka are ideal, although any fine, dry white wine will do.
So, how does Worley enjoy it?
"I like mine, with a little bit of creme fraiche. The creaminess of creme fraiche cuts the saltiness," he said. "The only other thing I'd add is Champagne."
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Editor's note: This story was corrected to give the proper days for happy hour at Station 6. It is Tuesday through Thursday.
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Editor's note: Are you a food maker in Louisiana? Let food writer Ann Maloney know about your product by sending an email with details to amaloney@nola.com. Do not send samples. Maloney offers brand-name products as a consumer guide; she is not paid to recommend items.
